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Almost Heaven

Glade Creek Grist Mill, Babcock State Park, West Virginia (10/12/20) Alena Nicholas

When John Denver first sang the words to Take Me Home, Country Roads, many of us thought, “Yeah, sure … West Virginia.”

The Mountain State has long been synonymous with the backwoods … coal mines … country folk … seclusion. It has always been remote, and that remoteness led to its being discovered as a place of retreat and restoration.

West Virginia’s first tourists were the carriage trade who could afford to travel for relief from the “heat, humidity and disease of the ‘sickly season,'” Wikipedia recounts.

As early as the late 1700s, wealthy people traveled to White Sulfur Springs for their health and by the beginning of the 19th century, it was considered to be the “Queen of the Watering Places” in the South and one of the country’s first summer destinations.

There, the Greenbriar, the nation’s first golf resort, continues that tradition as one of the country’s largest and most exclusive resorts, one of several elite retreats.

Though more often today, West Virginia’s mountains, hills and forests attract down-to-earth rock climbers, skiers, hikers, backpackers, hunters, anglers and nature lovers in search of the state tree, the sugar maple.

So, when Alena Nicholas’ photograph of a West Virginia mill stream arrived, it relit images of John Denver’s words …

Almost heaven, West Virginia
Blue Ridge Mountains, Shenandoah River.

Life is old there, older than the trees
Younger than the mountains, growin’ like a breeze.

Country roads, take me home
To the place I belong
West Virginia, mountain mama
Take me home, country roads.

All my memories gather ’round her
Miner’s lady, stranger to blue water.

Dark and dusty, painted on the sky
Misty taste of moonshine, teardrop in my eye.

(refrain)

I hear her voice in the mornin’ hour, she calls me
The radio reminds me of my home far away.

Drivin’ down the road, I get a feelin’
That I should’ve been home yesterday, yesterday.

(refrain)

John Denver
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Lessons From Lundy

Beaver Pond, Lundy Canyon (10/10/20) Steve Arita

The outdoors are a classroom that are constantly teaching us. Anyone who thinks they know it all, isn’t paying attention.

Steve Arita was Saturday, when he hiked up Lundy Canyon to the waterfalls. He observed and reported, “The day started out great, beautiful clear and calm morning, got some good shots of the first beaver pond, but as the morning progressed, within the hour, the wind picked up, and clouds came in, but it didn’t rain.

Autumn was dressed in her best. Steve noted the “fall colors were beautiful in the trailhead parking lot and up through the waterfalls, some patchy light yellow trees, but also bare ones as well, I hate to say.”

He hated to admit it, as wind lifted many of Lundy’s aspen leaves and sent them swirling across the land. He estimates, it “may be done within a week and a half or so, certainly best to go now.” Steve’s lower case use of “go now” seemed tinged with resignation.

He certainly was sympathetic about what the good folks who live in June Lake have had to endure. The Creek Fire has been sending its soot over the Ansel Adams Wilderness to seep into every corner of the June Lake Loop.

Sadly, after last autumn was a bust for June Lake, now smoke wants to suffocate the color. “It wasn’t the best for photos,” Arita admitted about the scene, though noted that aspen are Near Peak to Peak along most of the June Lake Loop.

A sad lesson learned.

  • Lundy Lake (7,858′) – Near Peak to Peak (50-75%) GO NOW!
  • June Lake Loop (7,654′) – Near Peak to Peak (50-75%) GO NOW!
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East + Drought = Early

Mt. Talcott, CT (10/11/20) Eugene Obermuller

East coast color spotter Eugene Obermuller reports from Avon, Connecticut that drought adds up to early fall color in the northeast.

A resident of Yonkers, NY, Gene headed north for a fall color visit to northern Connecticut and southern Massachusetts, visiting Simsbury, CT, home of the Pinchot sycamore (Plantanus Occidentalis), the state’s largest tree with a trunk measured at 28 feet in circumference (America’s second-largest sycamore).

During Obermuller’s visit, fly fishermen were busy whipping the Housatonic and pumpkins were lined for the picking at a church in Simsbury. All part of autumn in New England.

Simsbury, CT (10/11/20) Eugene Obermuller
  • Avon, Connecticut (276′) – Near Peak (50-75%) Go Now!
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It’s a Dog’s Life

Buddy and his chauffeur, Red Lake Rd. (10/11/20) John Poimiroo

While I was scouting for color along Red Lake Rd. (CA-88) this morning, Buddy and his chauffeur motored by. They were doing the same.

I learned that Buddy, a shaggy haired mutt, has over 50,000 TikTok fans. He added one more this morning. Any dog that gets chauffeured to see fall color deserves to be given a bone.

Buddy passes by on Red Lake Rd. (10/11/20) John Poimiroo

Highway 88 (Kit Carson Pass) is a mix of Patchy, Near Peak and Peak color. I’ll just describe the route between Caples Lake and Woodford’s Canyon as beautiful, and it’s likely to stay that way for a couple more weeks.

Vermillion Grove, Caples Lake (10/11/20) John Poimiroo

Vermillion grove at Caples Lake was a surprise. Usually it peaks and is gone within a few day, but it’s been at peak for over a week. I give it only a few more days at most, as yellow stands below it, along Caples Lake, are grabbing attention from it.

Red Barn, CA-88 (10/11/20) John Poimiroo

Aspen surrounding the red barn, just east of the road to Woods Lake are peaking, as are those at the Woods Lake Corral along the road.

Red Lake Creek Cabin, CA-88 (10/11/20) John Poimiroo

As seen above, the hillside beyond Red Lake Creek Cabin varies from Just Starting to peak, which means there’ll be good color there (conditions permitting) for another two weeks.

However, the aspen along Red Lake Creek on the opposite (south) side of Highway 88 are fully peaked and heavy with gloriously golden and orange leaves.

The same can be said of the groves in the heart of Hope Valley, between Blue Lakes Rd and CA-89. A few spots show mixed color, though most are Near Peak.

From the intersection of CA-88 and 89 east past the Wylder Resort and Campground, Woodfords Canyon is flush with orange and gold color, with occasional drips of red.

Markleeville’s California cottonwood are Near Peak and hugging the county seat of tiny Alpine County with their golden boughs.

I continued my scouting trip, stopping along the East Carson River to find it lined with fly fishermen and colorful willow, alder and cottonwood, all Near Peak.

On the climb to Monitor Pass (CA-89), I passed a burned area on the far slope overlooking Heenan Lake Wildlife Area. Throughout the blackened landscape, bright yellow and orange aspen pushed up amidst the skeletons of scorched pine and fir.

Monitor Pass, CA-89 (10/11/20) John Poimiroo

Atop Monitor Pass, aspen vary from Near to Past Peak. To the east, beyond the pass, they’ve peaked. Atop the pass itself, scrub aspen are peaking, and on the climb east toward the pass, they’re nearing peak.

As opposed to the “Oh, Wow!” of Carson Pass, Monitor Pass inspires more of a “Hmmm. I wonder why,” response.

  • Silver Lake, CA-88 (7,300′) – Just Starting (0 – 10%)
  • Caples Lake, CA-88 (7,800′) – Near Peak to Peak (75-100′) GO NOW!
  • Woods Lake Rd., CA-88 (8,200′) – Near Peak (50-75%) Go Now!
  • Forestdale Creek Rd, CA-88 (7,543′) – Near Peak (50-75%) Go Now!
  • Red Lake Creek Cabin, CA-88 (7,550′) – Near Peak (50-75%) Go Now!
  • Red Lake Creek, CA-88 (7,550′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!
  • Blue Lakes Rd Pasture, CA-88 (7,550′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!
  • Hope Valley, CA-88 (7,300′) – Near Peak (50-75%) Go Now!
  • Wylder Hope Valley Resort [Sorensen’s] (7,000′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!
  • Groves Surrounding Wylder Hope Valley Resort, CA-88/89 (7,000′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!
  • Woodfords Canyon (7,000′), CA-88/89 – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!
  • Markleeville (5,531′) – Patchy (10-50%)
  • East Walker River (5,000′) – Patchy (10-50%)
  • Heenan Lake Wildlife Area (7,000′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!
  • Monitor Pass (8,314′) – Near Peak to Peak (50-100%) GO NOW!
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Get Ready for Plumas

Sugar Maple, Thompson Valley Ranch, La Porte Rd. (10/10/20) Michael Beatley

Plumas County is primed to be peaking next weekend in Quincy.

Plumas County color spotter Michael Beatley toured prime areas today, reporting that some locations are nearing 75%, though many remain Patchy.

Beatley began his tour on the La Porte Rd into Thompson Valley. He went to see the status of the famous Thompson Valley Ranch sugar maple, an iconic and historic landmark dating back to the late 1800s. 

Quincy (10/10/20) Michael Beatley

For once, overcast skies from rain clouds, not from smoke. All fires in the general area have been contained, roads are open and evacuations have been lifted.

In downtown Quincy, many of the maple and sycamores have awoken and revealing their fall colors.  Behind the Plumas Superior Courthouse, vibrant trees were made more so by the grey card hanging overhead.

Meadow Valley (10/10/20) Michael Beatley

From Quincy, he drove to Meadow Valley, six miles west of Quincy on Bucks lake Road, where quaking aspen and cottonwood were showing off. Give it a week, he reported, and Quincy will be in its glory.

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Mono County’s Canyons

Earlier today, we posted about patchy to near peak color being seen in the canyons north of Mono Lake. This post covers those south of Mono Lake.

Bruce Wendler visited June Lake Loop, Convict Lake, McGee Creek and Rock Creek, sending back these snaps. Haze hung in the air on Friday, greying the images.

As reported, Rock Creek is at peak though the highest levels are about to bow out. McGee is next up, then Convict and then June Lake.

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Yosemite in Black and White

Tioga Pass, Yosemite National Park (10/5/20) Julie Kirby

Above is what it feels like when engulfed by wildfire smoke … a colorful landscape becomes black and white.

That was Julie Kirby’s impression during her visit to Yosemite on Monday (reservations required to cross Tioga Pass).

Julie visited the Valley and found it choking with haze. Dogwood, bigleaf maple and black oak are Just Starting.

  • Yosemite Valley (4,000′) – Just Starting (0-10%)
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Mono Lake’s Canyons

Lundy Canyon (10/9/20) Bruce Wendler

Streams flowing from Lee Vining and Lundy canyons comprise two thirds of the principal sources of water feeding Mono Lake. The other is Rush Creek.

Years ago, the City of Los Angeles sought to divert fresh water from these streams for its water supply, but the Mono Lake Committee fought a legal battle that stopped the diversion, saving migratory birds which depended upon high lake levels to protect their nesting areas.

Lee Vining Creek and Mill Creek (Lundy) sustain not only the life dependent upon Mono Lake, but also wildlife (beaver, migratory birds) and foliage that flourish in their canyons.

Color spotters Bruce Wendler and Michelle Pontoni and her husband visited today, finding the color to vary from Patchy to Near Peak.

Lundy Canyon is one of the finest fall color hikes in California and it looks to be primed for peak this coming week. Plan your hike!

To the north, Dunderberg Meadows (off Virginia Lakes Rd) is at peak and will be past peak sometime in the coming week. GO NOW!

  • Lee Vining Canyon (6,781′) – Near Peak (50-75% Go Now!
  • Lundy Canyon (7,858″) – Near Peak (50-75%) Go Now!
  • Dunderberg Meadows (9,600′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!
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North Lake Twilight

Sunset, North Lake, Bishop Creek Canyon (10/9/20) Elliot McGucken

Peak color has held in Bishop Creek Canyon where these glimpses of were captured today by Elliot McGucken.

Although full peak is seen here, it is not as lush as it was just a few days ago. Still, peak color will be seen there through the weekend and into the following week.

  • North Lake (9,225′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!
  • North Lake Rd. (9,000′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!
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Hope Valley Comparison

Philip Reedy’s text that he was in the Hope Valley arrived as I was on the road to South Lake Tahoe, yesterday morning.

I’d be returning that afternoon and wanted to see the valley, but also wanted to compare the lovely morning light he was reporting to what I might find when I returned that afternoon.

The above shows two images of Red Lake Creek Cabin, the first taken by Phil at 8:48 a.m., the second by me at 3:28 p.m. We stood at the same location at a turnout beside CA-88, using a pine to obscure a cabin with a blue roof at left. Aside from the exposure differences (Phil’s – 1/20 @ f16 – ISO 64 | John’s – 1/250 @ f.8 – ISO 250) and that I was handholding my shot in order to move along more quickly, the environmental differences are striking (click to enlarge).

Phil had the advantage of soft morning light (not the golden hour, but still sweet) and a clearer, more textured sky, while the light was more muted in my frame and haze is more evident. Haze lingers over the area. It is from fires elsewhere, though it diminishes the scene’s beauty nonetheless.

Also affecting the color is the staggered way groves are turning in the Hope Valley. Some are green, while others are tinged with yellow and still others are at full peak, while others have dropped their leaves. There is an element of beauty in this, though it can also be discouraging, as there’s no clear peak to the color. So, treat it as peaking and GO NOW!

On my morning drive east up the American River Canyon (US 50), I noticed that from 3,500 to 4,000′ bigleaf maple have browned quickly. They are edged with russet. I had to look twice. “Are those Western sycamore?” I thought to myself. “No, they’re bigleafs!”

Something unusual is happening. Perhaps it’s the environmental stress of so much bad air or perhaps it’s the lack of water (it hasn’t rained in months) or perhaps it’s disease. So many questions, so few answers.

Later, in the Hope Valley, aspen displayed varying amounts of ink spots on them. Some, just a touch, others fully black. There isn’t enough of this to ruin the scene, but it’s noticeable and short of perfection.

Red and orange colors the aspen more strongly this year than has been seen in the past. That makes for beautiful images, as seen in those taken this past week at North Lake (Bishop Creek Canyon), but it also can create a sameness that is overpowering.

Combined with haze, the orange struggles to reflect sunlight as intensely as yellow does. So, unless the sun is unobstructed, its rays don’t bring out the deeper color as strongly. Sunday is predicted to be the first unclouded day we’ve had in some time. So, the Hope Valley is likely gonna be at its best for this autumn.

To illustrate the photo location (on the dam) of what I’m calling “Vermillion Grove” (because it is a distinctive swath of vermillion above Caples Lake), I took these two images, the first at 70 mm (cropped), the second at 42 mm.

Vermillion grove only appears at the beginning of peak, then its redheads drop their tresses and disappear into the pine forest surrounding them. That’s when the blonder aspen, below, attract attention.

Seen here is more of what Reedy captured on his morning visit to the Hope Valley. See you there, Sunday morning.

  • Hope Valley – Near Peak to Peak (50-100%) GO NOW!