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Carson Pass and Hope Valley

Red Lake Vista, CA-88 (10/7/18) John Poimiroo

Today’s Sunday drive took us across Carson Pass and into the Hope Valley to scout fall color.

Meadow, Kirkwood Inn (10/7/18) John Poimiroo

Caples Lake, CA-88 (10/7/18) John Poimiroo

Log barn, CA-88 (10/7/18) John Poimiroo

CA-88 (10/7/18) John Poimiroo

Hope Valley (10/7/18) John Poimiroo

Sorensen’s Resort, CA-88 (10/7/18) John Poimiroo

Red Lake Creek Cabin, CA-88 (10/7/18) John Poimiroo

Red Lake Creek Cabin, CA-88 (10/7/18) John Poimiroo

Willows, Woods Lake (10/7/18) John Poimiroo

As Joan and I neared the Kirkwood Lake turnoff, we were disappointed to see that winds had stripped the west slope of Carson Pass. Only the deep red and orange of meadow shrubs east of the Kirkwood Inn were still beautiful.

So, we approached Caples Lake hesitantly, finding the deeply textured vermillion aspen that Phillip Reedy had captured on 9/28 to be faded and Past Peak.

We then pulled off to explore Woods Lake, passing a few bright spots of yellow along the road to the picnic area. Woods is a picturesque subalpine lake, devoid of aspen, though chartreuse willows line its far shore. By noon, temperatures had only risen to the high 30s. So, we were glad to have brought along warm jackets, knit hats and fleece gloves, and promised ourselves to return in warmer months to kayak the lake.

Only when we reached Red Lake Vista near Carson Pass (8,652′) could full peak color be seen hundreds of feet below near the lake and extending south across the forest.

Continuing east into the heart of Hope Valley, aspen were front-lit and unexciting, but when you turned west, the backlit trees radiated vibrant yellow, while those to the north were orange, yellow and lime.

A stop at Sorensen’s found the resort bustling as usual for an autumn weekend. The waiting line for lunch was over an hour long. Visit midweek and you can get a table pretty quickly.

On both sides of the highway approaching and across from Sorensen’s, stands of aspen were irridescent yellow, as good as I’ve seen them there.

Now returning westbound through Hope Valley, the groves virtually caught fire, backlit with ten thousand points of intense yellow and orange.

Cars would stop at turnouts and unload occupants who would either hike out to the groves or stand by their cars taking cell phone pictures and selfies.

After taking a final shot at Red Lake Creek Cabin, I ran into an old friend who noticed that I seemed “to be on a mission” compared to others who were lingering to enjoy the color. He mentioned he’d missed peak in prior years, but was determined this autumn to spend the day with his wife celebrating her birthday and enjoying the Hope Valley at Peak.

He was not alone. CA-88 was bustling with leaf peepers. Annoyed motorists leaned on their horns to express frustration when they were forced to slow to avoid cars that were pulling in or out of crowded turnouts along the highway.

It made me think, was I becoming like the impatient motorists? I wasn’t honking, but I certainly wasn’t appreciating the moment.

Or was I? 

  • Kirkwood (7,690′) – Past Peak – YOU MISSED IT!
  • Caples Lake (7,800′) – Past Peak – YOU MISSED IT!
  • Woods Lake (8,200′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!
  • Red Lake Vista (8,400′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!
  • Red Lake (7,861′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!
  • Red Lake Creek Cabin – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!
  • Hope Valley (7,300′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!
  • Sorensen’s Resort (7,000′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!
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High on Hope

Red Lake Creek Cabin, Hope Valley (10/4/18) Clayton Peoples

Hope Valley (10/4/18) Clayton Peoples

Hope Valley (10/4/18) Clayton Peoples

Hope Valley (10/4/18) Clayton Peoples

It’s easy to be high on Hope Valley.

It has lakes, streams, a Sierra pass (Carson – CA-88) and aspen in abundance.

So, when Clayton Peoples sent these shots of photographs, captured on Thursday, I knew what to do with my Sunday … head there.

As I write this, breezes are rustling the leaves in the Sierra foothills and whistling over the gables and eaves of my house.

So, it will be an interesting comparison of what happens with four days of peak and a little bit of wind in this beautiful corner of the Sierra. 

Hope Valley (7,300′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!

Red Lake Creek Cabin (10/5/18) Bonnie Nordby

Red Lake Creek Cabin (10/5/18) Bonnie Nordby

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Middle Martis Creek at Peak

M. Martis Creek (10/1/18) John Poimiroo

M. Martis Creek (10/1/18) John Poimiroo

M. Martis Creek (10/1/18) John Poimiroo

M. Martis Creek (10/1/18) John Poimiroo

M. Martis Creek (10/1/18) John Poimiroo

Aspen surrounding the decaying cabin beside Middle Martis Creek (CA-267) are at peak and will remain good, weather permitting, through this coming weekend.

On Monday, as occurs every day when the aspen are peaking, a steady stream of leaf peepers lingered at the cabin on their way to or after crossing Brockway Summit.

A well-maintained turnout provides parking for a half dozen cars, and there always seems to be one parked there. On weekends, multiple photographers try to work around one another, so a midweek, morning visit is probably best to capture the scene without having to wait for others to move out of frame.

These shots were taken in the late afternoon. By then, clouds had softened the light. I was looking for backlit leaves, but the shaded light kept the leaves from brightening, other than when sunlight would break through gaps between the clouds. I passed the meadow on my return the following morning and the frontlit scene appeared better.

Some of the aspen are dropping leaves, though under 10% of the leaves are still turning from green and lime to yellow and orange. Warm days (70s) and cool nights (30s) have intensified the orange and red tones of the groves. 

Middle Martis Creek (7,000′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!

M. Martis Creek (10/1/18) John Poimiroo

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Road Trip: The Big Loop

Dunderberg Meadow, Mono County (9/30/18) Phillip Reedy

Dunderberg Meadow, Mono County (9/30/18) Phillip Reedy

Dunderberg Meadow, Mono County (9/30/18) Phillip Reedy

Fall color junkies will go to any length to satisfy their craving for color, even if it means driving for three days straight.

Phillip Reedy proved that this past weekend when he took a road trip that we’ll call “The Big Loop.”

He began by crossing Carson Pass (CA-88), then Monitor Pass (CA-89), before heading down US 395 as far south as Bishop Creek Canyon (with numerous stops along the route).

Phil reports, “Carson Pass to Red Lake Creek is bursting with colors right now, but it ranges from all green to nearly past peak. The meadow by Red lake is just starting to turn, but heading down 88 from there to Red Lake Creek and the cabin the colors are brilliant yellow and oranges. In another week those trees will likely be losing their leaves.”

He continued, “At the Carson bridge 1/2 mile west of the 88/89 intersection the grove right above the river is looking great with green, yellow and deep reds. But just across the valley to the north, the trees are nearly all green. From the 88/89/ intersection to Sorensen’s Resort there are great colors but some groves near Sorensen’ are losing leaves fast. In another week this area will be getting bare.

West Carson River (10/2/18) Phillip Reedy

West Carson River (10/2/18) Phillip Reedy

Reedy continues that Monitor Pass has some nice yellow areas but still-green trees seem reluctant to change and estimates that in a week “this area will be looking nice.”

Mono County has been getting rave reviews so far this autumn, with Dunderberg Meadow southwest of Bridgeport “in full glory right now. Beautiful yellow, oranges and reds. Don’t wait for this one.”

North Lake, Bishop Creek Canyon (10/2/18) Phillip Reedy

North Lake, Bishop Creek Canyon (10/2/18) Phillip Reedy

North Lake, Bishop Creek Canyon (10/2/18) Phillip Reedy

Reedy was impressed by Bishop Creek Canyon, particularly South Lake, Lake Sabrina, and North Lakes as all looking great, as were the creeks near the lakes. North Lake is amazing right now. There are still some greens, but I would definitely go in the next week. Just downslope Aspendell is completely green so it will be a week or two before the colors look good there.”

Lake Sabrina (9/30/18) Mike Caffrey

North Lake (9/30/18) Mike Caffrey

Surveyor’s Meadow 10/1/18) Mike Caffrey

S. Fork Bishop Creek (10/1/18) Mike Caffrey

Mike Caffey also traveled a similar route this weekend, commenting that South Lake, Weir Pond and Parcher’s are nearly Past Peak. While there’s still color to be seen, it’ll be gone, soon. He was similarly pessimistic about how long peak would remain at North Lake and Lake Sabrina, though through the weekend it was “spectacular.”

I write this every autumn, but it never ceases to flabbergast me as to why people ask what they’ll see at North Lake in two weeks, when I’m reporting GO NOW! So, I answer, “bare branches.”

Remember, peak color lasts about two weeks. So, when you first see GO NOW! on a Near Peak destination, pack your bags. If you see it on a Peak destination, the car should be running and you should be heading out the door. If you don’t, YOU MISSED IT.

Red Lake Creek Cabin, Hope Valley (9/30/18) Mike Caffrey

Note that just because it’s Past Peak at one elevation, you haven’t missed it everywhere. If you’re truly in search of beauty, go to a lower elevation. For example, plan now to visit June Lake from Oct. 11 – 18. It should be gorgeous, then.  I can make no promises, however, how good June Lake will be on Oct. 20. 

  • Hope Valley (7,300′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW! – It’ll be great for maybe another week.
  • Monitor Pass (8,314′) – Near Peak (50-75%) GO NOW!
  • Dunderberg Meadows (8,609′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW! – This is a wow destination right now.
  • June Lake Loop (7,654′) – Just Starting to Patchy (0 – 50%) – Plan now to visit in mid October.
  • South Lake, Bishop Creek Canyon (9,768′) – Peak to Past Peak (75-100%) GO NOW or YOU MISSED IT! – There will still be great color down the canyon, but it’s almost past peak at the highest elevations.
  • Lake Sabrina, Bishop Creek Canyon (9,150′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW! – Are your bags packed?
  • North Lake, Bishop Creek Canyon (9,000′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW! – Is your motor running?

Red Lake Creek Cabin, Hope Valley (10/2/18) Phillip Reedy

 

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… The Threaded Foliage Sigh.

Beneath the forest’s skirts I rest,
Whose branching pines rise dark and high,
And hear the breezes of the West
Among the threaded foliage sigh.
— William Cullen Bryant

Such scenes are happening in California this week, as Peak color is blown by west winds of up to 20 mph.

Aspen Grove, Sand to Snow Nat’l Monument (9/29/18) Alena Nicholas

Aspen Grove, Sand to Snow Nat’l Monument (9/29/18) Alena Nicholas

Southern California color spotter Alena Nicholas hiked up to the Aspen Grove in the San Gorgonio Wilderness this past Saturday, returning with photographs of Near Peak color that show Patchy and Near Peak aspen pushing up within a forest of blackened trunks incinerated in the 2015 fire.

The grove is now part of the new Snow to Sand National Monument in the San Gorgonio Wilderness of the San Bernardino National Forest. A larger story on this aspen grove and its recovery is planned in a future article.

Alena called this morning to lament that strong winds from the edges of Tropical Storm Rosa may strip turned color which photos indicated might peak by the coming weekend.

However, there’s lots of green in the forest, so the peak will last another week or two. If you’d like to visit it, the Aspen Grove is accessible only by hiking there (about 1.5 mi.) along Aspen Forest Road 1N05.

Considering this week’s winds, you might want to consider to … GO NOW!

Hope Valley (9/30/18) Dan Varvais

Hope Valley (9/30/18) Dan Varvais

Hope Valley (9/30/18) Connie Varvais

Hope Valley (9/30/18) Connie Varvais

At Hope Valley, Dan and Connie Varvais photographed aspen and lamented that “It’s a mixed bag, right now … (and) It’s windy, GO NOW!” 

Aspen Grove, San Gorgonio Wilderness, Sand to Snow National Monument – Patchy to Near Peak (10-75%) GO NOW!

Hope Valley – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!

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Coldstream Valley A First

Coldstream Valley, Truckee (9/30/18) Robert Kermen

Steps from Donner Memorial Park in Truckee is the trailhead to Coldstream Valley.

The hike is mellow after a short climb up the glacial moraine of the glacier that once filled the valley. In spring, the valley is decorated with wildflowers and in autumn, scattered fall color. The entire loop is 6 mi.

Robert Kermen was exploring Truckee and the Martis Valley when he scored a first report for Coldstream Valley. He found spots of bright yellow along Cold Creek and near the valley’s  ponds.

Robert continued east on I-80 into the Martis Valley, exiting at Hirschdale road to find anglers surrounded by yellow reflections in the Truckee River. 

Coldstream Valley, Truckee (5,817′) – Peak (75-100%) GO NOW!

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Hope Has Arrived

Above Caples Lake, CA-88 (9/28/18) Phillip Reedy

Woods Lake Road, CA-88 (9/28/18) Phillip Reedy

Red Lake, Hope Valley (9/28/18) Phillip Reedy

Red Lake Creek Cabin, Hope Valley (9/28/18) Phillip Reedy

Red Lake Creek Cabin, Hope Valley (9/28/18) Phillip Reedy

Pasture East of Blue Lakes Rd., Hope Valley (9/28/18) Phillip Reedy

The Hope Valley (CA-88) has arrived, with autumn color painting its aspen in lovely tones of vermillion, rose, orange, saffron, yellow and lime.

Phillip Reedy visited yesterday to find the area peaking overall, “especially along Red Lake Creek and near Sorensen’s Resort.  There are still groves above the West Carson and along 89 to Tahoe that are completely green.”

He estimates peak color will last through next weekend, though beyond that, no promises. Hope Valley color spotter Debbie Waldear agreed, stating that next weekend (Oct. 6-7) is a likely peak for the Hope Valley.

Though, our experience has been that the Hope Valley – due to its range of elevations – has two weeks of peak color with it lingering around Sorensen’s Resort and in Woodford’s Canyon, well after it has peaked at Red Lake Creek.

Debbie reported that the Alpine Aspen Festival will not occur this year, with local hopes that it returns next year. Despite disappointing news about the festival, she was upbeat about this being the prime week to cross Carson Pass and visit Hope Valley.

A possible mediating factor will be weather. Hurricane Rosa is on track to reach Baja California on Tuesday as a tropical depression, bringing rain to Southern California. Some of that will reach the High Sierra though is not expected to be severe.

The best days to visit Hope Valley in the coming week appear to be Sunday (tomorrow), Monday, Friday and Saturday (Oct. 6), with rain and snow Tues. through Thurs.

Should snow dust the High Sierra, photographs of the Hope Valley and Eastern Sierra could be mind-bogglingly beautiful. 

Hope Valley (7,300′) – Near Peak (50-75%) GO NOW!

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Patchy, Gorgeous Sonora Pass

Leavitt Meadow, Sonora Pass (9/27/18) Dave Butler

9,000′, Sonora Pass (9/27/18) Dave Butler

8000′, Sonora Pass (9/27/18) Dave Butler

Sonora Pass (CA -08) is the second-highest pass in the Sierra Nevada (9,624′). Only Tioga Pass surpasses it.

Like the Tioga Road (CA-120E), fall color along the Sonora Pass is often removed from the highway, though there are places where it gets up close and personal.

Color spotter Dave Butler found it at elevations 8,000′, 9,000′ and at Leavitt Meadow Vista.

His images show green, lime, yellow and orange-red quaking aspen that are at the high end of being Patchy, with Near Peak color just around the bend. 

Sonora Pass (9,624′) – Patchy (10-50%)

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Sugar Shack

M. Martis Creek Shack, Brockway Summit, Hwy 267 (9/27/18) Robert Kermen

M. Martis Creek Shack, Brockway Summit (9/27/18) Robert Kermen

Two shacks, one at Red Lake Creek in the Hope Valley (CA-88) and another at Middle Martis Creek near Brockway Summit (CA-267) compete for the title of the most photographed sugar shacks in California.

While they are not technically les cabane à sucre, what French Canadians call cabins used to boil sap into maple syrup, these California sugar shacks are, with their seasoned boards embraced by autumn’s beauty, architectural cousins.

Robert Kermen visited the Martis Creek shack today, saying the aspen grove surrounding it is Near Peak with remaining leaves a bold blend of green, lime, yellow, orange and red. He wrote, “Wish those walls would talk. Lots of photographers must have stopped here over the years.”

M. Martis Creek Shack, Brockway Summit (9/27/18) Robert Kermen

The last time I was there, I happened by on a weekend, and worked around portrait photographers who were there to shoot wedding photos of future brides. The ladies posed like magazine models leaning against the weathered boards and backed by a yellow blur of leaves.

On Monday, I hope to return and capture it before the last of the autumn’s memories have fluttered away. 

Middle Martis Creek (7,000′) – Near Peak (50-75%) GO NOW!

 

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8000 – 9000′ Patchy & Glorious

Lee Vining Canyon (9/23/18) Rodney Chai

Mt. Whitney Trail, near Whitney Portal (9/23/18) Rodney Chai

Near 9,000′ in the Sierra Nevada, you touch glory.

Rodney Chai did that on Sunday, when he traveled over Tioga Pass (CA-120E), through Lee Vining Canyon and down US 395 to hike the Mt. Whitney Trail.
A meteorologist in Monterey, he’s used to observing nature, but training is rational and observing these scenes is emotional, as is evident from what he captured.
Fall color was mostly Patchy,  though touching glory. 
Mt. Whitney Trail (8500-9000′) – Patchy (10-50%)
Lee Vining Creek (8,000′) – Patchy (10-50%)
Lee Vining Canyon (8,500 – 9,000′) – Patchy to Near Peak (10-75%)
Tioga Pass (9,943′) – Near Peak (50 -75%) GO NOW!
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